Chemistry Guide

Ceramic coating, explained.

A liquid polymer built around silicon dioxide that bonds to your clear coat and cures into a thin, hard, transparent layer. Here is what that actually buys you.

SiO₂ Chemistry9H–10H2–3 Year WarrantyDIY-Friendly
SiO₂Silicon dioxide — the backbone of the whole category
~2µmFilm thickness once cured, about one-twentieth of your clear coat
9H–10HPencil hardness of the cured film (ASTM D3363)
2–3 yrWarranty across our two ceramic tiers
Ceramic coating Clear coat Base coat (colour) Primer ~2 microns · SiO₂ · 9H–10H ~40 microns · soft, scratches here ~15 microns ~25 microns BONDS, NOT SITS
Fig 01A ceramic coating cross-links with the clear coat rather than resting on top of it, which is why removing one takes machine polishing and why its life is measured in years rather than weeks.

What it actually is

Ceramic coating is a liquid polymer built around silicon dioxide — the same compound as quartz and glass. You apply it by hand to clean, corrected paint. It does not sit on top the way wax does; it cross-links with the clear coat as it cures, becoming part of the surface rather than a layer resting on it.

That single difference explains most of the category. Wax sits on top, so washing and rain take it away in weeks. A coating is chemically bonded, so removing it takes machine polishing — and its life is measured in years.

What it protects against

What it does not do

This is where most disappointment comes from, so it is worth being blunt. A coating is not impact protection. It will not stop stone chips, it will not stop a key, and it will not stop a deep scratch that reaches the base coat. “9H” is a pencil-hardness rating of a thin film, not body armour — see the chapter on hardness for what that number really measures. If you want chip protection, that is paint protection film, and a coating goes on top of it.

It also does not remove existing damage. Whatever condition the paint is in when you coat it is the condition that gets locked in. Correction happens before, never after.

How it goes on

Preparation is roughly 80% of the work and all of the risk. Wash, decontaminate, correct if needed, then panel-wipe so the surface is chemically bare. Only then does the coating go on — a small section at a time, left to flash for the time the manual specifies, then levelled with a clean towel before it hardens.

Miss a high spot and it cures as a visible streak that needs polishing out. Apply in direct sun or above roughly 30°C and it flashes faster than you can level it. Shade, ventilation and patience matter more than technique.

In The Range

Where you'll find it.

Common Questions

Before you buy.

Yes — V-9H Pro in particular is designed to be DIY-friendly, and every product ships with a full user manual. The honest caveat is that preparation, not application, is what separates a good result from a streaky one. If your paint needs correction first, that part is worth paying a studio for.

A ₹500 spray is a sealant with some SiO2 content. It sits on the surface, adds gloss, and washes off in weeks. A true coating cross-links with the clear coat and is measured in years. Both have a place — a spray makes a fine topper over a coating — but they are not the same product.

Yes, and washing is easier rather than optional. Dirt has less to hold on to, so a rinse removes more than it would on bare paint. What you should avoid is automatic brush washes and strong alkaline detergents, both of which shorten a coating's life.

The film needs an uninterrupted cure window — typically 24 hours before rain and around a week before the first wash. The exact figures are in each product's manual; treat them as hard limits, not suggestions.

Ready to pick a tier?

Both ceramic tiers cover the same ground. The difference is gloss depth, UV stability and how long the warranty runs.

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